Delhi - Red Fort

Event date: July 2009

It was a hot summer day in Delhi when I visited the Red Fort of Delhi in 2009, known as Lal Qila to the locals which surrounded by 2.4 km massive walls of red stone. Though it's summer, a ques to enter was very long. I had my cap which help to provide little shade to the face but not sufficient for my bare arms. The tickets to enter is Rs10 for the locals and Rs250 charged to foreigner. The Red Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage site of India.

The Red Fort and the city of Shahjahanabad was constructed by the 5th Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1639 A.D. The layout of the Red Fort was organised to retain and integrate this site with the Salimgarh Fort, the old built in 1546 A.D. The fortress palace is an important focal point of the medieval city of Shahjahanabad. The planning and aesthetics of the Red Fort represent the zenith of Mughal creativity which prevailed during the reign of Emperor Shahjahan. This Fort has had many developments added on after its construction by Emperor Shahjahan. The significant phases of development were under Aurangzeb and later Mughal rulers. Important physical changes were carried out in the overall settings of the site after the First War of Independence during British Rule in 1857. After Independence, the site experienced a few changes in terms of addition/alteration to the structures. During the British period the Fort was mainly used as a cantonment and even after Independence, a significant part of the Fort remained under the control of the Army until the year 2003.

The Red Fort was the palace for Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan's new capital, Shahjahanabad, the seventh Muslim city in the Delhi site. He moved his capital from Agra in a move designed to bring prestige to his reign, and to provide ample opportunity to apply his ambitious building schemes and interests. By comparison, Agra Fort is much more outstanding and grandeur to Red Fort in my opinion.

The fort lies along the Yamuna River, which fed the moats that surround most of the wall. The wall at its north-eastern corner is adjacent to an older fort, the Salimgarh Fort, a defense built by Islam Shah Suri in 1546. Construction of the Red Fort was completed within 10 years. It was said and believed that it is actually the rebuilt ancient city of Lal Kot which was captured by Shah Jahan since Lal Kot literally means Red (Lal) Fort (Kot). Lal Kot was the capital city of Prithviraj Chauhan in the late 12th century.

In above and below photo is the Diwan-i-Aam or the Hall of Public Audiences of which the emperor, seated in a canopied alcove, would hear complaints and pleas of the commoners through a balcony. The hall was ornamented with stuccowork and featured a series of gold columns. It also included a large railing that separated the commoners from the emperor. The Diwan-i-Aam was also used for state functions. The spacious mardana or courtyard behind the Diwan-i-Aam is surrounded by several interesting structures, though the function and purpose of some of them remain an enigma.

Emperor Aurangzeb, Shah Jahan's successor built the the Moti Masjid or better known as the Pearl Mosque as a later addition in 1659. It was built as his private mosque. The pearl mosque is a small, three-domed mosque carved in white marble, with a three-arched screen which steps down to the courtyard. The Moti Masjid measures approximately 12 x 9 metres, with a height of nearly 8 metres. Next to the mosque (seen in below photo) is the Hamam (bathing chamber) and Diwan-i-Khas.

The Red Fort is considered to represent the zenith of Mughal creativity which, under the Shah Jahan, was brought to a new level of refinement. The planning of the palace is based on Islamic prototypes, but each pavilion reveals architectural elements typical of Mughal building, reflecting a fusion of Persian, Timurid and Hindu traditions The Red Fort’s innovative planning and architectural style, including the garden design, strongly influenced later buildings and gardens in Rajasthan, Delhi, Agra and further afield.

Diwan-i-Khas or the Hall of Private Audiences (above and below photo) is where the Emperor held his private meetings with courtiers and state guests. The hall comprises a rectangular chamber with engraved arched openings supported on piers, on all of its sides. Each of the piers is gilded, painted and decorated with floral designs. Pillared chatris (umbrellas) cover the corners of the roof. At the centre of the chamber, the famous Peacock Throne throne was placed over a marble pedestal. The throne was looted in 1739 by Nadir Shah. Two of the marble pedestals were taken away by Captain Tytler from the fort after the 1857 uprising and one of these is located at the New York Metropolitan Museum. In 1760, the Marathas removed and melted the Silver ceiling of the Diwan-i-Khas to generate funds for the defence of Delhi from the Afghan invader Ahmed Shah Durrani. Nahr-i-Bihisht or the "stream of paradise" flowed through the centre of the hall. The arches at the corner of the walls contain the inscription of the famous verse of the 13th century Sufi poet Amir Khusrow, which reads, "Agar Firdaus Bar Rooe Zaminast Haminasto Haminasto Haminast" ("If there be a paradise on the earth, it is this, it is this, it"). Emperor Shahjahan was a huge fan of Amir Khusrow. 

On 11 March 1783, Sikhs entered Red Fort in Delhi and occupied the Diwan-i-Am. The city was essentially surrendered by the Mughal wazir in cahoots with his Sikh Allies. This task was carried out under the command of the Sardar Baghel Singh Dhaliwal of the Karor Singhia. Later it was used by the British during their occupation in Delhi. After the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857, when the fort was used as a headquarters, the British army occupied and destroyed many of its pavillions and gardens.

Naqqar Khana (Drum House) seen in below photo is located at the entrance point of the Rang Mahal. Music was played at specific times in the day alongside a large gate. Some people who visited the fort and would come on elephants, would get off of at this gate.

There is a mini museum inside Naggar Khana where its side entrance allowed for 1 way traffic up and way down. 2 photos below were among few thing that was displayed inside.

Every year on 15 August, the day India achieved independence from the British, Prime Minister will hoists the national flag at the Red Fort, followed by a nationally broadcast speech from its ramparts. The Red Fort is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Old Delhi, attracting thousands of visitors every year. It also happens to be the largest monument in Old Delhi.

Remarks: I don't have any of my photo taken here as a result of travelling alone. There's no luxury nor a courtesy to get your picture by a stranger, unless you ask.