Delhi - Lodhi Garden

Date of visit: 21st May 2011

William Dalrymple spent valuable times in Lodhi Garden while writing his 2nd book, City of Djinns (a year in Delhi). It was his book that I read while on MAS Airline to Delhi on 5th May 2011. Tony Reynolds, a tourist from Australia sat next to me and I shared the page that I was reading at the time he said "hello", it was a story of Lodhi Garden. Tony visited the park the week we landed in Delhi. My visit to this beautiful garden indeed was more meaningful though I visited a month later, early June 2011.

Historically, the garden was established in the 15th-16th century by the Muslim ruler famously known as the Sayyids and the Lodis. It is situated on the vast grounds in Delhi city and a famous spot among the joggers. For the record, Muslim ruler set its foundation based in North India in 1192 AD under the Empire of Muhammad Ghori. The Sayyids and the Lodi built their Middle Ages monuments within carefully kept gardens which becoming a unique charm. The present beautified form was however, the re-landscaped work in 1968 by J.A Stein and Garrett Eckbo.

The several tombs situated in the garden belong to both the era of the Lodi and Sayyid, including Muhammad Shah's Tomb and Sikander Lodi's tomb. Muhammad Shah (1434 - 44) was the third ruler of Sayyid dynasty. His tomb was built in a typical octagonal pattern with a central octagonal chamber, verandahs, three arched openings on each side and sloping buttress. Inspired by Mubarak Shah's tomb, this tomb has a more compact plan, high dome, matching chhatris (elevated dome pavilion) and better proportions.

Apart from this, there are other tombs, namely Bara Gumbad and Sheesh Gumbad. Bara Gumbad or the Big Dome is a square tomb with an imposing dome. Its facades appear to be two storied. It has turrets on corners, arches, stuccowork and painting ornamenting the interiors. It is believed that the tomb belongs to an officer of high rank who served Sikandar Lodi. Besides the tomb, there is the Bara-Gumbad mosque, built with ashlar stone. Its rectangular prayer-hall has five arched openings and is a fine example of the early Mughal mosques. The tapering minarets, built in the Tughluq style, colored tiles and Quranic inscriptions ornament this mosque. Built in 1494, this mosque was constructed during the reign of Sikandar Lodi.

Shish Gumbad tomb was built in the usual square pattern, with a 'double-storied' appearance, and looks much like Bara Gumbad. Its ceiling has incised plasterwork, with floral patterns and Quranic inscriptions. One can still see the traces of the blue tiles that once adorned it and gave it the name of 'Glazed dome'. There are several graves inside it. Sikandar Lodi's Tomb is built in the octagonal tomb pattern, much like Muhammad Shah's tomb. The chhatris over its roof are no more to be seen.

Another interesting construction that I did not not managed to see due to short of time is the 'Athpula' Bridge. It was built by Nawab Bahadur in the 16th century, during Akbar's reign. The bridge is called Athpula (means eight bridge), as it rests on eight piers, forming seven arches. Besides these tombs, it is also worth also to visit the National Bonsai Park developed here, which has a delightful collection of miniature versions of several trees and plants. They look beautiful at sunset under soft light. Originally known as the Lady Willingdon Park, it was renamed Lodhi Garden after Indian Independence in 1947.

Section dedicated for the Garden's nursery

Yellow flowers were blooming in May 2011

I wish to dedicate this entry to Tony, wherever you are, I wish to say sorry that we could not meet-up. Perhaps 1 day, we will :)