Amsterdam Centraal Railway Station

Date: 11, 12 & 13th October 2015

When one arrives in a new city, they would be in a hazy state not being familiarized with the new situation. The same situation happened to me when we arrived in Amsterdam Centraal railway station on 11th October. What I pictured in my head was a grandeur, old looking station as I've seen a photo of this station before. From the point where we arrived till the place where we waited for a cab, I could not figured out where was that building has gone as everything that I've seen that morning has a modern features. The story behind the evolution (what I prefer to name it) is finally discovered when I did my read from the wikipedia yesterday. I copied those important facts and paste in this entry from wikipedia website for my future reference and for your knowledge too, should you too interested to know more.

The best that I captured on 12th October 2015

Station Amsterdam Centraal is the largest railway station while being a major national railway hub of Netherland. It is used by approximately 260,000 passengers daily and is the 2nd busiest railway station in Netherland after Utrecht Centraal. The train station has been recorded as the most visited national heritage site of the Netherlands. The station principal rail operator who managed a national and international railway services is NS. Amsterdam Centraal is the northern terminus of Amsterdam Metro Routes 51, 53, and 54, operated by municipal public transport operator GVB. It is also served by a number of GVB tram and ferry routes as well as local and regional bus routes operated by GVB, Connexxion and EBS. We had a chance of taking a GVB trams seated only at the station main entrance on the 12th October and please take note that you may buy tram ticket from the tram operator without a need to look for a machine outside. Remarks: International routes and intercity train is usually entered a back entrance which explains my confusion. 

The day we arrived on 11th October 2015

The day we departed from the city on 13th October 2015

The beautiful Amsterdam Centraal building was designed by the Dutch architect, Pierre Cuypers and was first opened in 1889. It features a Gothic/Renaissance Revival station building and a cast iron platform roof spanning approximately 40 metres. Since 1997, the station building, underground passages, metro station and the surrounding area have been undergoing major reconstruction and renovation works to accommodate the North-South Line metro route, which is due to open in 2017.

The architect, Pierre Cuypers is also known for his design of the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam which explains the similarity of their facade design and reminded many regarding contemporaries of medieval cathedrals. While Cuypers was the principal architect, it is believed that he focused mostly on the decoration of the station building and left the structural design to railway engineers. The station was built by contractor Philipp Holzmann. The new central station replaced Amsterdam Willemspoort Station, which had to be closed down in 1878, as well as the temporary Westerdok Station that has been used from 1878 to 1889.

Snapped this photo before we boarded the canal cruise

The idea for a central station came from Johan Rudolph Thorbecke, then the Netherlands Minister of the Interior and responsible for the national railways, who, in 1884, laid two proposals before the Amsterdam municipal council. In the first proposal, the station would be situated between the Leidseplein and the Amstel River. In the other, it would be built in the open harbour front allowing for the station to be connected to the existing main lines in the area to the west and the south, but also to a projected new northern line.

The station building was completed in 1884, but the commission to the architect, Cuypers did not include the roofwork of the platforms. The roof, consisting of 50 curved trusses and a span of almost 45 meters, was designed by L.J. Eijmer, a civil engineer with the private railroad company Staatsspoorwegen. The roof was manufactured by Andrew Handyside and Company of Derby, England. Cuypers did design the decorations for the trusses and the gable ends. In October 1889, the station was officially opened, drawing a large numbers of crowds. The visitors were charged 0.25 guilders to see the magnificent station. The opening of the central station marked the city's transition from a waterfront city to an inland city, spurring further redevelopment activities in the city centre which included the realignment of streets and the filling up of canals.

In the 1950s, a pedestrian tunnel was created between the station and the road in front of it, which terminated inside the station. With the construction of the metro tunnel in the late 1970s, both the pedestrian tunnel and the road in front of the station disappeared. In the early 1980s, the central hall and middle tunnel were considerably widened and modernized. In the 1990s, a new signaling post was built on the western side of the station. In addition, the number of tracks on that side was expanded in order to increase capacity in the direction of Sloterdijk station. In 1996, a third, 'centre roof' designed by Jan Garvelink, architect at Holland Rail Consult, was built between the two existing roofs, whereby all platforms at the station were now covered.

Since 1997, the station has been continuously under construction because of the development of the North-South Line of the Amsterdam Metro, which was originally planned to be completed in 2014. Due to several setbacks, some at the Amsterdam Centraal building site, the line is now expected to open fully in 2017. Construction works at the station include a renovation of the station building, including the reconstruction of original station features which had disappeared over the years, a redevelopment of the Stationsplein (Station Square), and a new bus station on the north side of the station. In 2000, the new western passenger tunnel opened replacing the main tunnel in the centre of the station which was shut down enabling the construction of the new metro line.

In 2004, platforms 10-15 were extended to accommodate international high-speed rail services. Construction works for the bus station commenced in 2003 and were projected to be finished in 2014. It includes the construction of a fourth station roof and a station hall with space for shops and restaurants. It replaces 5 small bus stations and several isolated bus stops across the Station Island. In 2009, the partially finished bus station took into service. With all buses eventually moving to the new bus station on the north side, the Station Island should only be accessible to pedestrians, cyclists and trams. You may read a relevant entry what I wrote about taking an international train from this station, i.e. on 13th October 2015, "Train ride 2015 - Amsterdam to Hamburg".

The three passenger tunnels underneath the station were upgraded and provided with convenience stores and kiosks. In addition, two new passageways were created enabling the hosting of larger retail stores, geared towards passengers who have more time to spend at the station. The enormous size of Amsterdam Central is quite similar to the Hamburg station which I'm going to share the details of it when I begin writing about interesting places that I've covered while in Hamburg. This would be my last entry for Amsterdam, leaving 2 entries under "Food" categories that I wish to continue in future.

Amsterdam - Making Clog Experience in Marken

Date: 12th October 2015

We visited the Wooden Shoe Factory in Marken which is actually located next to the parking lot. Since we were coming from Volendam, we had to walk for 5 minute walk from the harbour to reach this place. But the walk was what I treasured the most. We were passing by a beautiful Dutch houses (mostly all in green coloured building with its beautiful gardens. I had to grab Anne’s camera for me to indulge snapping the flowers from the local’s garden. You may refer to my earlier entry, "lovely garden in Marken".

Marken is a village with a population of 1,810 in the municipality of Waterland in the province of North Holland in Netherlands. Marken forms a peninsula in the Markermeer and was formerly an island in the Zuiderzee. The characteristic wooden houses of Marken are a tourist attraction. In 2012, Marken had a population of 1,810 and a population density of 679/km2.

Marken harbour

Marken fishing village

For some time during the later 19th and early 20th centuries, Marken and its inhabitants were the focus of considerable attention by folklorists, ethnographers and physical anthropologists, who regarded the small fishing town as a relic of the traditional native culture that was destined to disappear as the modernization of the Netherlands gained pace. Among them was Johann Friedrich Blumenbach who examined a skull from the island of humans which he called Batavus genuineness; and was the Belgian painter Xavier Mellery who stayed in Marken at the request of Decoster. Mellery was asked to perform illustrative work and delivered several minimalist works.

The projects of Cornelis Lely was to incorporated the island into the markerwaard. The dike, built in 1941 in the north, is the first phase of that project which was stopped by the war. In 1983, the Marker Museum about the history of the island was opened. Marken was a separate municipality until 1991, when it was merged into Waterland.

I would say that the Tours & Tickets has brought us to the famous place, where you can refer here in the website, "The Clog Experience". We get to see how a local traditional clog maker, who has given us his enthusiastic demonstration of how a simple block of wood can be transformed into a wooden shoe within minutes. You may see him in below photo surrounded by the tourists that visited him that day. Therefore, when a tourist visited the former island of Marken, then they should visit this wooden shoe factory where they make clogs following their 100 years old tradition.

This place has obtained a museum status. For those who are interested may get the opportunity to learn something about this old Dutch profession by paying attentive to the whole process of making clogs. Apparently there’s a lot of history about different national and international wooden shoes that were on displays including the nicest and most special shoes of all, i.e. the wedding shoes from Marken. Glance through some of the photos that I'm sharing here with you.

The museum has arranged a wooden shoe demonstrations daily for their visitors. This place can host groups of up to 100 people. Accordingly, it’s definitely worth visiting them and learning something about this old Dutch profession. Should you wish to experience wearing the shoes, they are most welcome you to try them on and find out whether they are comfortable or not to wear. I was too lazy to open my boots, hence, I pass by that chance to put them on my foot. Please also take note that there is no entrance fee charged to enter.

While other tourist were concentrating on the briefing, I had my own way of exploring the shop and suddenly realise that it smells very nice as a lady in below photo was apparently making a Syrup waffles. They provided a small space for her to freshly bake the waffles and serve them to the tourist. I did not try them. You may find other souvenirs in this shop other than the wooden clog, i.e. it is not all about wooden shoes in here beside their special served waffle. They have a beautiful line of gifts and presents should you wish to bring back to your love ones. For the record, I did not buy any ‘komplen’ or wooden clog, rather a fridge magnet clog miniature was what I brought home.

Amsterdam - Cheese Factory, Edam Volendom

Date: 12th October 2015

Volendam is a small town harbors which the Dutch are so proud of. In the 16th and 17th centuries, Edam, Volendam, Marken and Monnickendam were a bustling places with a flourishing fish trade. In Edam and Monnickendam the merchants lived the high quality of life and had a beautiful monumental properties built. Many of those buildings are still standing. Volendam is located about 30 km away from the windmill Zaanse Schans. The bus took us there and later it proceeded to Marken, allowing us to take a short cruise over to that fisherman island.

From where the bus parked, we followed the Tours & Tickets 2 cheerful tour guide to the famous cheese factory in Volendaram.  The Cheese Factory Volendam  is one of the famous tourist attraction in Amsterdam. We were then ushered to their museum located right at the lower ground of the building. We were informed that making cheese is not just a process, it's an art, thus, we had an ultimate experience in the world of cheese by being in this place. The factory occupies a premises of over 400 m2 where they have created a small Cheese Planet, consisting of 3 areas; the Museum, the Factory and the Shop. we got to know the process of how the milk later becomes a flavorful slice to spice up our bread. 

The cheese making machine, the 60 year presenter...

The tour guide started off the introduction before this humorous and beautiful 60 years old lady begin her talks and demonstration. Accordingly, cheese is one of the most common products in Westerner's food consumption, not to the Asian like me. And yes, Netherlands is one of the largest cheese producers in the world. She shared some educational stuff like how the holes appear in the cheese (*Answer=it is created by flecks of hay which develops into bigger holes as the cheese mature) and what makes the cheese taste different (Answer=because it has different process of making it each time) etc. and above all, we get to taste everything ourselves at the end of the demonstration. Obviously it is an exciting and entertaining experience for all age group of people.

Cheese has a long and thrilling history to tell. This particular product was accidentally discovered by the nomads about 6,000 years ago. It used to be quite different from the cheese we all know at present, maybe because of the technology advancement. In the museum we will get to know the farmers' traditional way of making cheese, the initial ingredients of the cheese and the long way of turning milk into creamy cheese. This cheese factory museum houses the unique collection of historical artefacts, pictures and items that vividly demonstrate the development of cheese making culture throughout the years. 

After our lady was done explaining the history of cheese, she proceeded on explaining how the modern process of cheese production. In addition, she demonstrated and explain how the fresh milk turns into the famous Dutch cheese. With her humor talent, she even suggested how to knock a husband head with hardened and old cheese, should he did listened to the wife.

1 of the unique artifacts found in the museum

The Cheese Factory provides us with small excursions around the factory where we get to indulge ourselves in the cheese making process. The excursions, which are available for groups as well as individuals, are held in Dutch, English, Spanish, French, and German. During the excursion we tasted several types of cheese with different additives and spices. Never ever in my whole life that I get to enjoy eating cheese with wasabi, jams, pickles etc etc. And of course later, we had to pay their hospitality by buying what they have offered in their special Cheese Shop. There's no free lunch right? We found a freshly homemade cheese from Volendam, exclusive cheese products, nice and handy cheese accessories and a wide range of souvenirs for the real cheese lovers. I'm very sure the cheese lover would agree but those I purchased, including a smoked cheese still have lots of balance in the fridge. Finally let's enjoy the various cheese photo in their shop.