Phnom Penh to Saigon by Express Bus

Travelling Date: 29th December 2014

Border crossing, on Cambodia side without a need to see the immigration as it is all arranged by the transporter, Khai Nam

There is no more railway connection from Aranyaprathet train station in Thailand connecting any cities in Cambodia up till Ho Chin Minh (Saigon) city in Vietnam. Since the war in Cambodia, the railway line between Bangkok and Phnom Penh has only been running between Bangkok and Aranyaprathet on the Thai side of the Thai/Cambodian border. It was told that at least until 2009, the railway between Battambang and Phnom Penh stopped operating within Cambodia. Train services across the border between Aranyaprathet and Battambang has been suspended for some years, although there is talk of restoring the complete Phnom Penh-Bangkok rail link in the next few years when Cambodia's railways are rehabilitated. I may return if the 3 Government has somewhat signed a Memorandum of Understanding to build the train connection, so that my earthbound travel is all complete with train route.

Pick up from the hotel to the bus center

In the absence of train, buses becoming the first choice of travel between the 2 cities beside airlines. A number of bus companies each operate a range of daily air-conditioned buses in each direction from Phnom Penh to Saigon, taking about 6.5 hours. The bus costs less than a tenth of the flight price with a lifetime experience of short crossing of the Mekong by ferry. Anne and I were both overthrown with bundles of joy when we get to stay outside the bus while on ferry. Should we come at a later year, the bus would bypass ferry and taking the bridge (under construction which is visible from 1 of the photo below) instead. We are twice lucky for coming earlier, i.e. before the bridge is open for crossing.

Happiness overloaded while crossing the Mekong River with bus on the ferry

The distance from Phnom Penh to Saigon is only 240km and rest assured that the road is also good. We have been advised that Mekong Express is the most reliable bus line and thought that the hotel would do our booking through them when we trust them to do the arrangement. However, we got a little bit disappointed when we saw the ticket was on other bus lines, ie. Khai Nam Express. The fare is slightly cheaper. 2 tickets were charged at USD24 @ USD12 per person and we arrived in time. Most important thing, they made 2 stops for toilet and lunch break. In the end, we have no complaints about their services. By all mean, please use their services.

The transporter sent a minivan to collect the passengers from different hotel to it’s bus center. After all ticket and passport verification, they kept our passport throughout the journey. We were told that the passport would be returned after we successfully crossed the Vietnam immigration check point at the border. True enough as after everyone has cleared the immigration line, the passport is back for our safe keeping, given by the immigration officer with stamped on it. For record purpose, the reliable bus companies operating modern direct buses between Saigon & Phnom Penh are Mekong Express Limousine Bus (www.catmekongexpress.com), Sapaco Tourist, Kumho Samco, and Mai Linh. Our bus took us direct to Saigon city but we got cheated by the Taxi Cab driver in Saigon by charging us 400% higher fee than usual.

You have nothing to worry if you cannot buy your bus ticket online as there’s plenty of buses up running to and from Phnom Penh to reach Saigon. You can easily buy a ticket when you're there, simply by walking into any local travel agency when you get to Phnom Penh or asked the hotel to arrange for you, like we did. If you are thinking to arrange on your own, you may do so in Saigon by buying tickets from the Sinh Cafe, www.sinhcafe.com or www.deltaadventuretours.com and in Phnom Penh, try www.asiavipa.com. There are so many companies and buses, you'll always find a bus with tickets available, even booking the day before you travel. 

When the minivan has reached the bus centre destination, all our baggage is loaded under the bus. Anne had to make sure twice that our luggage were safely inside before she can relaxed.  The bus is air-conditioned without any toilet. For your information, most express buses in Malaysia has toilet at the most end, on the rear side which I got to use quite a lot during my boarding school and college years. The bus left the station promptly, refreshment towels are handed out together with mineral water and some snack. The bus staff collected our passports as I told you earlier. For those who is required to have a Vietnam visa must attached a visa money for necessary arrangement once we have reached the Vietnam border. 

About an hour later, we arrived at the river crossing by ferry which came as a surprise to us. I was initially wondering why the bus started their queues at the river side. The only possible thing is to collect another passenger. When asked whether I can get down for toilet stop, the bus driver gave a NO NO sign. Less than 5 minutes later, the bus was already on the ferry crossing over Mekong River. The ferry that we took was called as Neak Loeung.The busses are pretty modern with air con and have a conductor who rounds everyone up when the bus is ready to move on. Before we reached the border for control formalities, the driver stopped for a spot of lunch 30-45 mins. 

Local snacks selling at the stop

We first tried the sweet Vietnamese coffee at the stop, the only thing we can have as the rest are all on non-halal menu

The bus reaches the Cambodian border at Bavet shortly after. We were told to leave the bus, enters the terminal and wait until the staff made necessary arrangement with the Cambodian immigration. We just waited for the bus to cross and get up again for the next stop at Vietnam immigration check point seated not too far from there. Again, the bus staff has made prior arrangement with the immigration officer. We encountered a pleasant cross through unlike our experience while crossing at the Poipet border.

Cambodia border crossing plaza, neat, clean and tidy unlike at Poipet border

Vietnam borders crossing at this juncture is at Moc Bai seated about 200 yards from Cambodia border, Bavet. Passengers are required to take down their own luggage, entered the immigration building, queue for your name to be called out. By the time we approached the counter, the officer merely handed over our passport that are already being stamped. Very simple right? collect your passport when your names were called, and thereafter you may leave the building at the far door and rejoin the bus, which by now has pulled forward.  The bus leaves when everyone is back on board. We arrived in Saigon about 2 hours later.  

Cambodian border can be seen (200 yards) from Vietnam's border

Inside Vietnam Immigration centre in Moc Bai while on queue

I would like to share 4 photos below that I snapped from the of the bus, It's a view of the Cambodian country side (2 photos on the first row and 2 last photo was from the Vietnam side. As you can see the view in Cambodia landscape changes significantly, from urban ribbon development which has stretched almost all the way from Saigon to the border,  to far more rural scenes with rice fields and water buffalo.  The architecture also changes, from the Chinese-inspired buildings in Vietnam to temples and shrines more akin to those in Thailand. 

The bus arrived at De Tham Street (a backpacker area) in HCMC. We were in a rushed to check in as we were overly exhausted throughout the journey. In that state, we made mistake by taking the first offer from a con-man and the cab driver who associated with him. We paid 100 times more than what we paid for our fare from Phnom Penh to Saigon. It made us scared to take a cab until the next day, a local advised us to take a reliable metered taxi at a much much lower price. We learnt a tough lesson that day.

Phnom Penh - the City as seen at Night with Tuk Tuk ride

Date: 28th December 2014

We have been very wise in engaging a Tuk Tuk driver to take us around the city after agreeing on the charge rates like a professional Quantity Surveyor's (QS) are. Anyway, we both has a strong QS blood in us so, there would usually no problem in getting people adjusting their charge rates into our budget numbers. What we did after we check-in at the hotel was taking a quick rest, set a wifi connection to both our Iphone and Mac Book, took shower and performed the obligatory prayers. Surprisingly that we were not as hungry as we thought we would though we were in the boat almost a third of the day. Before negotiating with the tuck took driver, we had a late lunch or rather a combined lunch and dinner at a Muslim food restaurant seated adjacent to the hotel. 

While having our meal, we discussed the places that we should stop during the tuk tuk's ride, using a Phnom Penh Tourist map as a guide. Our intention was to pass by most of the Phnom Penh attraction from where we started, i.e. the hotel and back to the hotel. Among the attractions that we have covered are, National Museum (no stop), Royal Palace (no stop), Silver Pagoda, Cambodia Vietnam Friendship Monument, Independence Monument, statue of the late King Norodum Sihanouk, Buddhist Institute, Central Market, Canadia Building, Train Station, Vattanac Building, Wat Phnom, Post Office and Night Market. We made only 2 stops at Silver Pagod and the Train Station just to take photo.

First stop, Silver Pagoda (will be on separate entry)

The tuk tuk driver genuinely glad that we took his service. This was how he look after we have done our quick tour inside the Silver Pagoda :)

The tour was indeed very relaxing and warm by the Ton Le Sap river route. We saw in a gloomy light a National Museum of Phnom Penh, which is located just next to the Royal Palace (seen in below photo). The museum houses numerous sculptures, relics and artifacts, mostly a main highlights from the Angkor era. An entrance fee is USD2 and USD1 extra is charged for your camera.

National Museum

Wat Botum and Cambodia Vietnam Friendship Monument

Meanwhile, the Royal Palace complex reminscent the Bangkok grand palace though in a much smaller scale. The palace is off limits for a tourist to explore. An entrance fee is charged at USD3 plus USD2 for a camera. It looks really grandeur at night when the light is on. Royal Palace is open daily from 7:30am to 11:00 am and from 2:00 till 5:00pm. We were very pleased to witness how the locals enjoyed their late evening out at an open space of the palace, in a crowded road, full of motorbike, having their meals. The night view around the palace can be seen in few photos below. 

closer look of the Royal Palace

There were so much crowds in a heavy traffic jam area. We were clueless of what special occasion there could be since no better explanation offered by the tuck took driver who can't speak more than necessary English with us. He mostly smile, nodded, say yes yes to anything we asked and said. 

We were impressed with an Independence Monument, or "Vimean Ekareach" as called by the locals. It is a majestic structure that really dominates Phnom Penh city centre. Independence Monument was primarily erected to mark the liberation of Cambodia from the French who ruled the country for almost a century from 1863 to 1953. It was built in 1958 and inaugurated in 1962 during the regime of Sangkum Reastr. It serves as a proud testament to commemorate the Khmer who sacrificed their life for the welfare of the country. Above all, the monument and the Statue of the late Norodom Sihanouk looks magnificent at night.

Statue of the late Norodom Sihanouk

Independence Monument at Norodom Boulevard

Take note that the tuk tuk can carry 6 person at one go, so they are the most ideal way if you are in a big group. Fare is said ranging from USD1 dollar for a short trip. We paid ours for USD7 dollar though it said you can book for USD10 for a half day and or USD17 for a whole day depending on places you wishes to visit. It will charge more should you travel outside the city or with  multiple passengers.

Below is a central market or Phsar Thmei called by the local. The place is in the top ten list to visit as it became the most famous local market among the tourist. It's an art deco building full of merchandise which inside has many market stalls that you can explore. The market has been recently been renovated. You may find a row of food stalls selling cheap and tasty local dishes at the northern part.

Central Market

It took less than 2 hours or so to cover the whole journey. The route that we covered from our tuk tuk route ride that night night are shown on highlighted marker line in. You can get a copy of Phnom Penh Tourist Map from the hotel reception to guide you. The map is intended to go hand in hand with their tourist attractions, dining and tips that you mind very useful. We started from our hotel at Sisowath Quay and back. Do not change so much local currency as most of the places accept Euro or American Dollar.

Boat Ride - Siem Reap to Phnom Penh

Date: 28th December 2014

Before I start, I just wanted to inform everyone that the boat time is not punctual. Though the ticket said 07:30, the tuk tuk driver finally dropped us at the boat dock close to 09:00 hours. An hour later only the boat leaves the dock. 

There are 2 ways to reach Phnom Penh from Siem Reap, either by bus or an adventurous speedboat ride. As for me, speed boat is a much better choice and Anne just nodded her agreement. Only during the boat ride that I realised, she did not really enjoy the journey at all. She did not move an inch from her seat from the moment we were boarding till the time we dock safe and sound in Sisowath Quay , Phnom Penh. Argh, I’m so deeply thankful for her tolerance and patience to safe our friendship. She is indeed a God sent down from a heaven since He (Allah) knows well ahead of time that Maznah is to rest with Him early.

Bus is said to be much cheaper and faster. The boat journey takes approximately 251 kilometres but road the road distance connecting Siem Reap and Phnom Penh is 314 kilometres. If by bus, the fare is approximately $12, cheapest, most frequent and slightly faster than the boat. As for the speedboat along the Ton Le Sap lakes and rivers, the fare is $35. Please take note that the services is sometimes cancelled depending on the water levels (for example, between March & August). Though slower than the bus, I opined the choice is the most fun and memorable way to travel.

The fact remains, the Phnom Penh to Siem Reap speedboat costs more than the bus, takes a bit longer (delays to start the journey due to late arrival of the passengers) and can be cancelled if water levels are too low or if there aren't enough tourists to support it.  But seeing rural life on the river from the sun-drenched deck of a speeding riverboat is simply amazing, worth for money.  Let my photos shared in this entry assist you in your decision but be mindful, you would need to stay in your seat inside the boat for the whole trip. Bring book or anything to kill time.

The ferry departed from the boat dock at the Chong Kneas floating village, about 11 km south of Siem Reap. The hotel made the necessary arrangement without any extras. Trust them, the tuk tuk shall arrived in the morning at the hotel lobby to bring you to the boat dock. He was even considerate in allowing us to finish our breakfast. The tuk tuk made numerous pick up at other hotels. For those who travelled from Phnom Penh, on arrival at the Chong Kneas boat dock, a tuk tuk driver will be holding a card with your name on, and will take you into central Siem Reap in about 15-20 minutes.

Though it was said that the speedboat will depart at 07:30, it was not the case. The boat started moving close to 10 in the morning. You may see from the photo that inside are bus-like seats. The seat are not enough for all the passengers, so some of them spend the journey outside on the roof or deck, having a sun bathing even when the boat speeding along at 25 knots. I would recommend a sun cream not to burn yourself if you choose to stay outside. It is the perfect viewpoint to watch Cambodian river life at the roof deck.

I spent most of the time reading, whilst Anne slept. On the final part of the journey, I decided to explore the outside to snap quite a lot of photos of the floating village. A friendly passenger help me recorded my photo in it. So, I have a valid evidence on those 6 hours journey in a good Asian weather.

The boat itself is more like a river air-conditioning bus and travels at approximately at 45kph.  It’s best to get there early and booked your seat inside the boat but the air-conditioning inside is too cold. If not you may get a seat on the bow of where you can dangle your legs over the side whilst using the rail to keep you safe.  The roof is curved and although there is a small rail it’s easy for your baggage to roll over the side and into the water never to be seen again if you encounter waves or swell in the Tonie Sap. We stored our luggage at the dedicated storage area at the back of the boat. The passageway on the deck between the seating area and the roof is about 18 inches wide with no handrails for the first couple of metres so to begin with its a bit scary moving about between seating and roof but after a while you get used to it. Its a great way to see the countryside and riverside so the six hours or so pass far faster than a bus or plane journey.

The toilet (flush straight down to the lakes/river) is clean. Please comfortably use them, but bring your wipes and toilet paper.

A photo of me belo as evidence that I was in that adventurous speed boat ride on 28th December 2014.

The couple next to me who slept during the entire journey without enjoying any of the views.. They must be very very exhausted.

We passed through a narrow river side towards the end of our journey where I joined my fellow passengers to enjoy the dock view. It's simply breath taking to see the Cambodian way of life by the river side. 

We arrived at about Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh at around 4pm. So fortunate that Anne found a hotel around the corner of the dock. We just walked across the road in less than 5 minutes.

Below photo is the view from our hotel room balcony, overlooking the dock. We both were very happy that we had the most convenience stay in Phnom Penh, though only for 1 night. It was very pleasant.